Part 1 - Introduction to Pattern Making & Drafting
Pattern Making is the art of designing patterns which are paper templates from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling. Creating a paper pattern helps manufacturers make multiple pieces of the same style efficiently.
Pattern Drafting is a two dimensional method of developing a drawing of a garment on pattern paper; based on body measurements. Basic blocks have no style lines and they are a guide to making the master pattern for different designs. From one basic block, many styles can be obtained whilst still retaining the size. Block patterns are made without seam allowances and wearing ease. Seam allowances should be added when being cut out in fabric.
Clothing manufacturers develop their own set of basic block which fits their perceived customers. Basic blocks vary from company to company. Pattern makers use these basic block patterns to develop the pattern of different designs. They may introduce style lines, tucks, gathers and pleats on the pattern.
The Pattern Draping method is used for more elaborate and unique designs that are hard to obtain through the flat pattern method. It involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern fabric directly on a dress form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto paper pattern.