Part 2 - Fabric Straightening
Fabric Straightening before Layout and Cutting:
A muslin plain woven cotton made from bleached or unbleached corded yarns in a variety of weights can be used for this project. Once the fabrics are made grain perfect it has to be laid out for cutting. Arranging the pattern pieces economically is termed as layout. While economizing, fit and comfort should not be compromised.
Once the markings are over on the fabric, the pattern components are removed and stored for future use. The next step is to cut the fabric along the pattern lines marked. Cutting should be done on a flat and firm surface. A suitable table should be selected for accommodating the work.
In lengthwise centerfold layout, both the selvedges are folded so that they lay on top of each other, with the right sides facing each other and the wrong side on the top. The fold is parallel to the selvage. This is the simplest and easiest layout. Ex: Skirt Layout for Woman’s Skirt
For delicate and sheer fabrics, tracing wheel is not appropriate as the teeth of the tracing wheel may damage the fabric. For thick, smooth textured, heavy fabrics tracing wheel can be used and the marking can be lined with pencil or chalk later.
When tracing pattern lines on fabric, carbon paper of good quality must be used. Carbon marks will be left on cloth and may be visible from the right side of the fabric is transparent. While using carbon paper, tracing should be done lightly.
The markings on the pattern like slashes, notches and darts can be marked directly on the fabric with tailor’s chalk. Marks on the top layer can be transferred to the remaining layers of the fabric by using a carbon paper or tracing wheel.
Pins help in anchoring the patterns to the fabric. Pattern edges are then marked with tailor’s chalks.